I woke up to the text from Brandon. He wrote “Where are you? I’m at your hotel.”

It was 7:00 am, and I was a bit confused. I was flying out that day from Victoria Falls to Johannesburg in a few hours, and I was not in the mood to get up earlier than I need to. Then I got a text from Azar. “Where are you? I want to meet you for breakfast.”

I responded “In bed. But I can get up.”

Then I sent a text to Brandon. “Coming down. Meet me at Breakfast?”

I dragged myself out of the lush white comforters of the bed and pushed through the sheer white canopy and sighed. My toes hugged the carpet beneath me. I was going to miss this hotel, and I was going to miss Victoria Falls. I finished my shower, packed my bag, dressed and took my key from the door. I paused and sent Azar a text. “I’ll be at breakfast in 5. How close are you?”

“Just 20 minutes away,” she wrote.

Of course, she would not be ready for the breakfast she set up. Nevertheless, I was excited. In three days, I had managed to create an adventure and make four new friends. Cindy, at the front desk of the famous Victoria Falls Hotel. Azar from Iran who was also taking a solo trip. Brandon from Zimbabwe who had initially tried to date me until I informed him I was married and Edward whose mother was hosting an event for the government at the Victoria Falls Hotel and who had taken me out to town for some drinks.

After leaving my room I made my way through the hotel grounds. In the distance were lush green trees that began as soon as the lawn circling the Victoria Falls Hotel ended. I walked a pathway lined with rocks and the path lead me to a walkway. In the distance was a fountain cased with gold that signaled the entrance to the outdoor breakfast area. Once past the fountain, a waiter greeted me and took me to where Brandon was already sitting at our table.  We sat in silence briefly as we waited for Azar. His smile stretched from cheek to cheek.

“Did you hear?” He was barely able to contain himself. “You are here as part of history.”

I blinked. “Excused me?” I asked

“Mugabe’s under house arrest.” He said.

The news shook me. Holy sh*t. Thoughts began to race through my head:

Would I be able to catch my flight?

Will I be able to leave?

Is the world ending?

I looked around at the breakfast area. Everything seemed normal. The sun was shining. A butterfly flapped its wings nearby. People were chatting with their families as if it were any other normal day.

“Wow. I’m speechless.” I began, “Is there a congratulation in order? I mean, what’s next? What do you think will happen?” I finished my unorganized sentence – half selfish and half concerned.

Brandon responded “It means we avoided war. The military will do the right thing. I think everything will be ok now. The people want peace.”

I sat there for a while in my thoughts; reflecting on all the wonderful people I had met in my short time in Victoria Falls. I was afraid for the future that I also felt this sense of confidence in what Brandon was saying. I trusted that after so long – a peaceful outcome was possible. He knows his country best.

So how did I end up here? In Zimbabwe in the middle of a historic coup?

It all started four days prior….

After finishing my tour with Pangolin Photo Safaris in Botswana, Janine drove me to the border to get my Zimbabwe visa. I met Jim after securing my visa and crossing into Zimbabwe. Jim was assigned to transfer me to the Victoria Falls Hotel. I had zero plans for what I would do once I got there but I figured a chat with the concierge would suffice.

After jumping into the car with Jim and beginning our journey, our pleasantries turned to politics.

It was a strange idea for me that this would be one of my first interaction in Zimbabwe: a critical conversation about the state of Zimbabwean politics and Mugabe. I had always imagined that people would be tight-lipped for fear of retribution should their thoughts be found out but it didn’t feel this way.

Former President Robert Mugabe had ruled Zimbabwe with an iron fist for the last 30 years. He was a de facto dictator who won rigged elections every year by 90%. He was getting too old to continue to rule and his likely successor was rumored to be his wife, Grace, who was despised by many in the country.  In preparations for the upcoming elections, Grace’s main opposition party had recently been forced from the country and were currently living in exile. The rumors from the capitol were that Grace had been manipulating Robert Mugabe to make bad choices since she married him. It was she who had banished the opposition party and it was she who had contributed to Zimbabwe’s fall from grace. There were even conspiracy theories that she had used voodoo to control Robert Mugabe and therefore the country since she had become his wife in 1996. Many people blamed her for the country’s lack of opportunities. She did not help her image by constantly appearing in public with designer clothes and buying the latest trendy x,y,z while many in the country went without the basics. While I was traveling in South Africa I met many Zimbabwean expats who were highly educated with Master degrees and PhDs working as taxi cab drivers. While good education was accessible in Zimbabwe, jobs were not. People were desperate for work and had to use every innovation imaginable to move up the social ladder in life.

The immediate talk of politics with Jim signaled what I considered to be a shift in an otherwise oppressive regime. Of course, this being my first time in Zimbabwe, I could have just been wrong in my perceptions of what everyday life was like. But during the car ride, there was a fierceness in Jim’s voice and he was open and honest with me about his concerns for his country.

“I don’t know what’s going to happen.” Jim began. “No one wants [Grace] as president. People are talking about a possible revolution if she steals the election.” He finished.

I held my breath and thought to myself And here I am in Zimbabwe in the middle of a possible uprising.  The idea made me uncomfortable.

“Something has to change,” Jim continued. “Something has to give. We can’t keep going on like this.” I nodded in agreement unsure what to say. Then Jim changed the subject to the love of his girlfriend and the hope that one day he could make enough money to marry her.

After our long conversation and drive, Jim dropped me off in front of the Victoria Falls Hotel, where a porter came out to greet me and take me to the reception area. I thanked Jim for his honesty and time before following the porter to check-in.

Walking into the Victoria Falls Hotel is like walking back in history. Everyone is dressed in black and white and the decor seems stuck in the early 1900’s to the late 1800’s. It was extremely classy, open, and gave you the feeling of being royalty. The entire hotel was whitewashed and grandeur.

During check-in, I  immediately asked about a tour of the falls. For 20 dollars I could have an assignment within the hour. I agreed and paid 20 dollars to the receptionist and then was handed off to the porter who was to show me my room and the hotel grounds.

We first passed out of the reception area to a huge atrium with a pond filled with fish and lilies. The sound of the water dropping from the sculptures of young angels reaching for the heavens was relaxing. Next, we entered the foyer which extended into two massive hallways. To the left and right led to rooms indicated by large dark oak doors. The hallways were lined with bursts of Europeans, colonists, and explorers. Looking straight ahead through a decorated archway lay the garden with a footpath which led to the Victoria Falls. I was smitten. Looking out from the lawn you could see the mist of the falls over the endless trees.

“This is where we have our afternoon tea ceremony,” the porter said and motioned with his hands to show off the entire lawn. I knew I had chosen well.

After our brief tour, he took me to my room. Opening the door I immediately fell in love. It was spacious and classic with 1920’s appeal. It had a kind of colonial décor one expects to only see nowadays in movies. He handed me my brass key and left me to myself. I threw myself on the bed and signed.

Oh, Victoria Falls, it is so nice to meet you! 

After an hour, I left to meet my guide for the falls. He was an older gentleman and a father of four. He reminded me of my older uncle and had a smile that radiated kindness. He ushered me to his car and drove me the short 10 minutes to the gates of Victoria Falls. We paid the $30-dollar entrance fee, and we went inside. As we walked he told me about the history of the falls.  That the name of the falls in one of the local languages was really Mosi-oa-Tunya which meant the “The Smoke that Thunders”. He explained to me that when David Livingstone came to Zimbabwe it was the locals who showed him the falls and he was taken by them immediately.

We walked for an hour. The Zimbabwe side of the falls is long comprising of 17 viewpoints and takes about an hour to walk whereas the Zambia side is a short 20-minute walk.  As we walked sometimes we would get engulfed in what felt like heavy rain but was instead simply mist from the falls. During the walk, we were surrounded by greenery. It smelled like a tropical rainforest. Birds of all colors would sporadically fly by and you could hear the crickets in the distance. The pathways were outlined with trees and buses all supported by the mist of the falls. Luckily for me, I did not get totally drenched. My guide had brought an umbrella because he was used to tourist not having a clue as to how powerful and wet the falls could be.

We walked to all 17 spots and I was lucky to be there in the dry season. In the wet season, you can only walk only 8 out of the 17  designed viewpoints before being overtaken by mist from the falls. The falls are just so powerful. The visibility becomes low during the wet season and there’s a constant downpour of rain.

Nevertheless, the low season was impressive. The waterfall sounded like actual thunder and I still managed to get a bit wet. It was incredibly powerful and beautiful. The falls are really beyond our vocabulary.

Photo: Jasmine Nears. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

As the guide and I walked he took pictures of me overlooking the falls, and of course, we talked politics. He too sensed the sizzle of the fire of revolution rising from the people. They had had enough and Robert Mugabe seemingly stepping down seemed like an opportunity for change.

After reaching stop 17 we turned around and we went back to the hotel.

That night I booked a rainbow tour of the Victoria Falls with a tour company that would start at 6 am.

Up before breakfast began I had a cup of coffee in the reception area and waited for my guide.

In walked Brandon.

He was young, wearing a beige shirt, and he carried with him an infectious smile, a tripod, and a camera. He saw me immediately and came over to me. He introduced himself and asked me if I had a waterproof bag for my camera. I did (I had bought one after my first experience) and then he took me to his van and drove me to the site.

We again paid the $30-dollars and went into the place. He started our conversation with a series of questions about my life and travels.

I told him I was on a world journey and that this was my first time in Zimbabwe. That I loved photography and had just come from a photography tour in Botswana. He listened intently as he set up my camera with his tripod in the perfect spot to hopefully catch a rainbow as the sun rose.

“So, is there a special person in your life?” He asked after I silence had fallen over us.

I thought to myself, he’s direct and then answered, “Yes, my husband.”

“Oh,” he responded “and why did he not join us for this tour? Why did he let you out of his sight? You are beautiful.”

I admittedly blushed.  “He trusts me.” I began “And he didn’t come because he is at home.  I am traveling by myself for the next month. He’s a wonderful husband to support me like this.” I finished.

Brandon looked confused. “I see,” he started “well, I would never let my wife out of my sight. I don’t think that is love. How do you know he is being true to you?” He questioned.

“I know it,” I shot back. “And honestly no one can control anyone else. I don’t worry myself about things I can’t control. Either he will or he won’t. But I just have to trust him until he proves me wrong. Are you married?” I asked.

“No,” he said “But I have maybe a few friends. But I would like to be faithful to one. To maybe someone like you.” He started…

“I don’t think we’d work out Brandon.” I cut him off. “I’m a bit of a free spirit and the person with me has to understand that. But tell me again how you know the rainbow will come here?”

And with that, I changed the subject. After our slightly awkward conversation, his advances went from weird to friendship. He watched the sunrise with me and sure enough, there were rainbows.

Rainbow over Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe CC: Jasmine Nears-Biesinger

After capturing tons of rainbow photos, we talked more. He offered to show me more of the falls and I agreed. We got back into his van and he took me to the backside of the falls where the river flows into the gorge. It was lovely. We walked in the open where elephants, crocodiles, and other animals usually roamed free as well. There was something I trusted about him -despite his feeble attempt at my heart.

Afterward, he suggested we have lunch. He was also taking another solo traveler on tour and thought we’d like each other. I agreed and my morning tour continued on but this time he was just being himself. We laughed a lot and he told me of his family as he drove me to the Shearwater Rainforest Cafe.

At the lunch spot, we met up with Azar. Azar and I instantly hit it off! She was also his client, and she was solo traveling. We were both the same age and both trying something new for the first time. It was friendship at first sight. I sat down at our table and ordered smoked salon for breakfast along with a coffee and a shot of Amarula. She liked her Amarula on the rocks.

We laughed and got along over our mutual admiration for creamy liquor in the morning. After lunch, Brandon left us to tend to other business matters and Azar and I walked back to my hotel together. We went directly to the hotel bar overlooking the gardens with the footpath to Victoria Falls. The bar was wooden, had leather seats, and was decorated like the inside of a ship captain’s office. We ordered some fruity drinks off the menu and laughed more. Hours passed and we chatted.

Later, Brandon joined us. He ordered a Coke and we began making plans for the rest of the day. Brandon suggested we go to some local bars at night. He also urged me to sign up for a late afternoon safari that started at 4:00 pm that same day. I couldn’t believe so little time had passed since that morning because I felt like we were all quick friends.

At 5:00 pm he and Azar had a dinner cruise to take and they promised to meet me after. Rather than day drink by myself, once they were to leave me I decided to take Brandon’s advice and sign up for the safari at the Stanley and Livingstone private reserve to keep me occupied until our next meeting.

We all exchanged numbers and promised to meet again.

About 30 minutes before it was time to leave for the safari I said my goodbyes, ran to my room, dressed in green and beige, and went to the receptionist area to get picked up.

I knew my ride had arrived when a safari jeep pulled into the driveway. I jumped in without help. I was now a professional at safaris. Then we took off to the game reserve. As we drove I thought to myself: Here I am again, a woman by herself on safari at night. How lucky am I? 

On safari, I discovered a new kind of antelope I had never known existed. The largest antelope in Africa, the Eland. It was beautiful. We also saw rhinos, giraffes, birds, zebras (my first time on safari), and lots of antelope. We had a sundowner  (which consists of chips and alcohol) and then we drove back to camp. Unfortunately, the only downside was the cicadas, who had just hatched. When the sun went down my hoodie became the only refuge to the countless flies and cicadas who tried to overcome me.

Zebras are standing at Stanley Livingstone Private Reserve in Zimbabwe. Photo: Jasmine Nears

Rhinos walking in Zimbabwe. Photo: Jasmine Nears

I thought it was ironic that I would experience cicadas twice by chance in different areas. Once in Wisconsin and once in Zimbabwe. What luck! (NOT).

After returning to the hotel, I showered the bugs away, threw on a cute outfit, put on some makeup, and went downstairs to the reception area to wait for Azar and Brandon to arrive.

And I waited.

And Waited.

I called them both and everything went to voicemail. I had finally agreed to go out on the town and now, I figured, they were standing me up.

I was waiting near the concierge desk pacing back and forth when a voice asked: “Can I help you?” I turned around and met Cindy for the first time.

Cindy had a warm smile that instantly made me feel comfortable. His short cut hair fit perfectly with his round face. His voice, a softness that reminds you of a sweet uncle. There was something about Cindy that could make you open up and tell your life story to him. So that’s what I did.

I told him I was waiting on two people, but it looked like they were going to stand me up. He apologized to me for my misfortunes and suggested I go out anyway. I admitted to him that I was a bit afraid to venture out on my own. Then he asked me from where I was visiting.

Our conversation turned from friendly exchanges to history, to sociology, to business, to the current state of Zimbabwean affairs. An hour passed and I was still sitting there laughing with him. Suddenly Edward appeared from behind us.

He introduced himself to us and joined in on our conversation.  We learned he was there on business for his mother, and he was living in Victoria Falls. He’s married and had daughters. He offered to take me around to see the town since my other friends were nowhere to be found still an hour later.

Admittedly, I looked at Cindy for approval, and he suggested he talk to the man a bit more in private. I agreed.

Cindy returned and assured me that if I was truly curious to see the town, then I should without a doubt go with him. “He’s safe,” he said.

For some reason, I trusted Cindy enough to go on his word alone.  So I decided to go off with Edward to see the town.

Soon, Edward and I were in his car as he drove me to a local bar where he knew just about everyone. Outside was a group of three men sitting and drinking beer. They greeted him when he arrived with me. I introduced myself and they all said hi. We discussed what life was like in Victoria Falls and they applauded me for getting out of the hotel and into town. They urged me to go home and tell as many people as possible about how wonderful Zimbabwe is. Two hours passed and we were still sitting, laughing, and drinking $1 dollar beers. I got a bit hungry. So Edward drove me to a local fast food dining hall where I ordered us both pizza. We returned to the bar with the pizza to find his friends had left.

So he suggested we go next door to a small microbrewery that had white Christmas lights leading to its door pathway. I can never resist a local brewery so we followed the Christmas lights inside; bringing the pizza with us.

I talked to the microbrewery bartender who told me they had just opened up two months ago and were brewing only two beers – a pilsner and an IPA. The IPA was less desirable, but the pilsner was delicious. I discussed how they should market themselves on TripAdvisor and how tourist visiting Victoria Falls would go crazy for a local brew like theirs. The night continued on with more conversations and laughter.

Everyone I met was friendly and accommodating. The locals I met all urged me to tell people who visit Victoria Falls to leave the hotel and see the town. They requested that I “spread the word” of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. And the locals told me that the more people who visit and invest in the local community, the more residents have jobs.

I was touched by everyone’s hospitality and I promised I would tell all my family and friends of the generosity and hospitality of the people of Victoria Falls.

After fives hours Edward dropped me back off at the hotel, and I walked to my room, happy, tipsy, and feeling incredibly brave.

A few hours later my alarm went off. Then I got a text from Brandon. Then I met him at the breakfast table and he told me the news of Robert Mugabe.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

As Brandon and I sat at the table and I tried to comprehend the news Azar finally appeared as promised, 20 minutes later. Brandon and I both got up and hugged her.

“Did you hear the news?” I asked her.

“What?” she responded.

I looked at Brandon. He then proudly said “The military put Mugabe under house arrest. His rule has come to an end.”

She froze. “I’m going to Harare tomorrow,” She gasped, and the uneasiness of the uncertainty came over us.

“I’m sure you will be fine. Zimbabweans are a peaceful people. All we want is peace.” Brandon reassured her. Somehow, I believed them.

“You have to send me updates on everything,” I requested from her. She promised she would. “And of course, stay safe…” I added.

Brandon, Azar, and I continued to eat stuck somewhere between excitement and fear.

After breakfast, I said my goodbyes, and I checked out of my hotel.

Thankfully, Cindy was at the receptionist desk. I went to him and thanked him for everything.  He hugged me goodbye. I promised him that I would do everything in my power to return as soon as possible and this time with my entire family.

Cindy then made me promise that I would contact him first before I returned so that he could help show me and my family around. He then echoed Brandon’s conclusion about the state of affairs

“Don’t worry,” he said “Everything will be fine. We are a peaceful people.”

I promised Cindy I would return then I left with my arranged car to the airport.

I arrived 20 minutes later and the walk through the airport was surreal. I looked for newspapers that discussed the apparent coup but everything was business as usual. I then saw a picture of Mugabe in the lounge area and realized that this may be the last time I would see a picture of him in a government building.

I snapped a picture to keep as a memento. Zimbabwe was in the midst of the most important political transition in 30 years, and here I was walking around as if everything was business as usual.

I ordered a coffee with Baileys and a grilled cheese sandwich and waited for my plane.

As they announced the boarding for my plane, the reality of that morning hit me:

Here I was, in Zimbabwe, in the midst of a coup, and I am finishing a drink of Baileys and getting on a plane to Johannesburg just like it’s any other day. I then really understood that Zimbabwe would be ok, at least until the election.

Last Known Picture of Mugabe at Victoria Falls Airport.

Update:

After leaving Zimbabwe, the Government has since made right on its promise so far. Elections are to take place between July 22nd and August 22nd, and no recorded violence has occurred. There’s a goal to have free and fair elections. The former Vice-president, now president Emmerson Mnangagwa is running to keep his seat. His opponents are from the MDC-T and the National Patriotic Front. Before the ousting of Mugabe, the MDC-T was the main opposition party in Zimbabwe and their party leader, Morgan Tsvangirai, was favored to win a free and fair election. However, he tragically died. Now Nelson Chamisa, a less popular party member is running on the MDC-T ticket. The National Patriotic Front, a new party which is supported by Mugabe, is running Ambrose Mutinhiri, a man who served under Mugabe for nearly 40 years. There are conflicting reports of who else is running in the elections this year. News24 claimed there were a total of 112 political parties but there are at least 12 main ones. As of the writing of this post, in April, there is a good chance that Zanu-PF’s will remain in charge with Emmerson Mnangagwa winning the election. Nevertheless, the elections will take place between July and August of 2018. When I returned, as promised to Victoria Falls Zimbabwe in March of 2018, everyone was full of hope and jubilance. A new leaf is undoubtedly turning.

****Names in the story were changed to protect identities.

Please leave this field empty

LET’S KEEP IN TOUCH!

We’d love to keep you updated with our latest news and offers

What’s your name?

And your surname?

Email Address *

We don’t spam! Read our privacy policy for more info.

Check your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.